VIN 30837S110939

Car Year:	1963
Car's confirmed production date: (as confirmed by the NCRS Shipping Report Service)	March 1, 1963
Owner:	Mike Erkfritz
City:	Waterford Township
State:	Michigan
Country:	United States
Car website	https://
Purchase date:	10/03/1973
Status:	Current Owner
Nickname:	63 SWC Fuelie
State:	Show Car
Exterior:	941 Sebring Silver	(16.34%)
Interior:	Blk Black (Vinyl)
Softtop:	Other Color
Wheels:	Black
Body:	Unknown
Delivery Dealer Zone:	Unknown
Delivery Dealer Code:	Unknown
Options:	RPO	Option	Percentage Sold [%]	Sales Price [$]
	837	Base Corvette Sport Coupe (FI 360hp)	49.24%	4,252.00
	941	Sebring Silver Exterior Paint	16.34%	80.70
	A01	Soft Ray Tinted Glass, all windows	2.92%	16.15
	A31	Power Windows	17.39%	59.20
	G81	Positraction Rear Axle, all ratios	81.60%	43.05
	L84	327ci, 360hp Engine (fuel injection)	12.13%	430.40
	M20	4-Speed Manual Transmission	83.54%	188.30
	N34	Woodgrained Plastic Steering Wheel	0.60%	16.15
	P48	Cast Aluminum Knock-Off Wheels	0.60%	16.15
	P91	Blackwall Tires, 6.50x15 (nylon cord)	1.92%	15.70
	U69	AM-FM Radio	42.66%	174.35
	Total		0.000000000695784% (1 Cars)	5,292.15
Factory job nr.:	Unknown
Export Car:	Non Export Car
Engine details:	L84 Duntov 097 cam and lifters, Original Rochester Fuel injection and air cleaner
Car history:
Purchased car from consignee Tom Swindell (retired Corvette race driver) at his home in Ortonville, Michigan. It had a heater core leak as there was antifreeze on the passenger floor area. I had contacted the owner who at the time was the body shop manager at Mathews Hargreaves in Pontiac Michigan. The had purchased it with a front end wreck and was painted yellow. He had their body shop repair and replace from the windshield forward. He painted it white. When I bought it it had: 6 taillights, 1964 Corvette side pipes, the faux scallops behind the doors were bondoed over, it had a 5,500 rpm tachometer, the fuel line was replaced with copper tubing, a 1964 shifter and boot, five 1966 knock off wheels, no rear window inside trim, a 1964 glove box dooor, front springs from a 1965 396 engine, a 327 cuin engine from a 1967 Impala, and the raised fiberglass under the door handles had been ground flat. The later had caused the door button rod to slide over the top of the lock plate causing the door to not unlatch fully! In 1980 I began a frame off restoration to replace the copper fuel line and redo the frame. During this time I discovered that the frame was rusted through in front of the left rear wheel. I purchased an Auto Swapper magazine and found a 1964 rust free frame for $1,000 in Kalkaska, Michigan. I drove up there and it was immaculate, you could read the VIN stamped on the frame above the left rear wheel. He asked me what was wrong with mine, I told him and he asked what I wanted for it. I guessed at $350, he said ok. So I drove back with my frame and paid him $650 and drove back home. I took that newly purchased frame to Chem Strip in Detroit to be dipped to remove any signed of rust. A few days later I picked it up on my snowmobile trailer and took it to my friends pole 40 foot pole barn. We rigged a swing like structure out of pipe to hang it from and sprayed it with water to rinse off the chemicals and let it dry. A few days later we laid it down and used a siphon spray and painted it inside and outside with zinc chromate primer, then painted it with a flat black enamel with a hardener. Along with the other chassis components, a-arms, brake dust covers, etc. i purchased original front springs (taller with thinner coils) and put the chassis back together with new brake and fuel lines, new wheel cylinders, rebuilt the original master cylinder, and bought newbrake shoes. We the bolted the body back on the new chassis. I had noticed a clunk in the rear end (was not a positraction). I made an appointment to replace the rear end with the posit traction unit at the Ring And Pinion Shop in Utica and drove out there.On the way out there driving on M 59, at the time which was a 2 Lane highway, the right front adapter and knock off wheel came loose and flew out and over the car and into the grass. A passerby stopped and help me put the wheel back on, and it appears I had not tightened that adapter after I had bled the brakes. I rebuilt the original engine that was in it and sold it. I purchased a correct block that has been overbored .060 for $450. I paid $3200 to have it rebuilt and after putting 250 miles on it it began to blow steam out of the right band. I pulled the right head and found a hairline crack in the #1 cylinder. I pulled the engine and gave it back to the engine builder. A month later he called and said he should have used a thin wall sleeve but had used a thick wall sleeve. Upon tightening the head bolts, the block had cracked!it took him a year to find another correct block (correct part and casting date), he mentioned that it had never been touched )bored) and I paid him $650. He rebuilt that one by boring it 0.20 over to clean the cylinder walls.
For Sale:	No
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